My good friend Arline passed in March, followed by nine people I knew, in April 2026…church friends, members of the Covington community, and my first cousin. Too many gone. Life is fragile and fleeting . This is a tribute to them, and to the many others whom I did not know. I was composing a different column, but felt moved to honor the departed. This is for Pat M, Helen, Ed, Wendell, Dale, Evelyn, Renee’, Ken, Pat P...May they Rest in Peace and Rise in Glory.
When I lived in GREECE, I learned ; besides a WHOLE new alphabet… (Cyrillic with only 24 letters), a new language; a whole new lifestyle. It was quite the education, too! N.B., I lived on a small island, accessible only by boat, and everything, including WATER, was brought in by boat. The first funeral I attended in our Greek orthodox parish church was very different from American funerals. I kept my eyes open to observe and obey the traditional customs. There was always a large flat cake on a special platter. It was bright- white, with silver nonpareils (edible cake decoration resembling silver bbs) decorating it with a cross and initials of the deceased. After the service was over, ladies took spots at the cake table. With silver scoops they served up a memento-remembrance for the attendees ( a funereal party favor ?) A large scoop of koliva was placed in little brown glassine- waxed bags, then handed out. I had no clue as to what it was, so I quietly asked, “what is this?”… “ It is koliva[KOH-leh-Vah’] and you are supposed to eat it!” ( to honor the memory of the departed). So, I looked at it inquisitively; it resembled a puffy a type of trail mix with nuts and seeds)? But when I tasted it, it was a treat to the palette. Soft-boiled wheat berries, pomegranate seeds, raisins, powdered sugar, honey, crushed walnuts, cinnamon, lemon zest, spearmint/ parsley, sesame seeds, almonds are most of the ingredients. It is a blessed and healthy snack.
I liked it so much that I privately told my Greek friend Doti “koliva is the best thing about funerals !” She said, “I agree, I love it too.” So, she painstakingly gave me the symbolism of each ingredient.
Wheat: The dead, the earth. The regeneration of life. Everlasting life.
Pomegranate: Plenty. The beauty and brightness of Paradise.
White almonds: ( known as Jordan almonds) The naked bones and continuation of life…( as the flesh disappears, the bones resist the destruction of time).
Spices: The aromas of the earthly world.
Parsley or spearmint :The soft green grass where the Soul rests in peace.
Nuts: Regeneration of life.
Cinnamon: The fragrance of the Christian spiritual life and the blessing that accompanies a person at the time of their death.
Raisins: The sweetness of life.
Sugar: The sweetness of Paradise.
Silver nonpareils or dragées: Unaltered, incorrupt bones of the deceased. They represent the hope for resurrection and spiritual purification after the body’s wear and tear in life.
Using those candies, designs can range from simple to very ornate.
(Vines represent Christ)
In Greece, koliva is served at the funeral, at the 40 -day memorial, and for the last time three years later. Memorial cakes have been used in Greece for thousands of years, even before Christianity. Koliva is usually made at home, taken to the church for a blessing by the priest, as a sweet offering to commemorate loved ones who have passed. Wheat berries affirm the Biblical concept that a grain must die to bear fruit.
Based on John 12:24, the body is buried with the hope of resurrection. Serving koliva connects the mourners to the deceased, and to each other in attendance.
In case you want to make it at home, there are various versions of this recipe out there. Search until you find one you like or create your own version. Really, the only thing you have to cook is the wheat, so buy a good brand: available in health food stores, Walmart, and grocery stores. The wheat berries take a long time to cook, and they must be completely dry to make this mixture, or the sugar icing will clump up, a mess. The sugar must be dry to be formed. SOAK the wheat overnight, drain, then boil for an hour, until tender (make sure!) as it is the tender blanket-y base .
Then, spread the boiled wheat on a cookie sheet on a clean towel for at least six hours, but preferably overnight. Oi... that’s two nights of prep already, but it’s easy prep. Then in a large bowl mix in wheat, seeds, nuts, raisins, pomegranate and spices. Gently fold and blend all ingredients together. If you really want to feel it, connect to your late YiaYia, use clean hands to lift handfuls and carefully combine it.
Now, upon your lovely platter, tray, plate ( gold-foiled- cardboard ? ) as the base; place the mound of mixture;… and push, pat, shape it into a circle [traditionally], or rectangle . It should be low and flat, one layer, about two inches high. Smooth on top and sides. If not firm; pat with very dry breadcrumbs, then spread on sugar as a thick white icing . Complete decorating; offer to the + church +… Amen.
Carol Veliotis is a local columnist for The Covington News. She can be reached at carol.veliotis@gmail.com.